So I have been driving it for about 400 miles now to numerous car shows and going out for cruises around town, trying to work some of the bugs out from everything we did this winter, but I notice when I take off from a stop sign or I cruise at a very low speed (say30 mph) it seems to be very boggy from no throttle to about 1/8th throttle. Chris I am having a little different idle problem I did your -40 thing and that help with high idle but my problem is it idles fine until I drop it in gear and it stumbles a couple times catches up and then idles fine again. Even 50 RPM can make a difference in how much impact the transition to Drive has on the idling engine's ability to stay at a fixed RPM.I would not recommend it in this situation but anytime a "kick" in idle speed is desired that is easily done by setting the kick value in Tuning > Advanced > Adv. Thanks Again for your help. When you key on, you will hear three distinct sounds: The ECU initializing the IAC, the fuel pump priming, and the injectors firing their prime shot. Technically it is a warranty-voiding maneuver so proceed at your own risk. Consider adding fuel in the AE vs TPS and/or AE vs MAP ROC tables in the area where the stumble is occuring.Since this is happening at such low TPS levels it is possible that your engine would prefer a lower (richer) target AFR number at idle. It's the same one that Holley puts in their Sniper Master Kits and I've never heard anyone with anything but good things to say about it. :-). I will let you know what the results are. Hey Chris! As inconvenient as it might seem, I'd recommend keeping a timing light handy and checking your timing during the high idle condition and then again after restarting. The AFR was pretty consistent around 13. The link above includes the option to buy a -6 AN I have a set of 8.8 Accel Rfi suppression wires on it. If I read it correctly, the solution from the other thread seemed to fix a constant 300 or so RPM increase. Both answers you've received greatly oversimplify the truth in favor of the answerer. I would continue checking the electrical connections along the fuel supply. Holley EFI Electronic Fuel Pressure Gauge, article on choosing between Sniper and Terminator X throttle body solutions. I am at the point where I almost insist that every Sniper EFI System owner purchase one of these. I can have it working fine (5% to 10% at target idle at operating temp.) I installed my Sniper and the engine fired up great. I got it home, checked it all over, everything is hooked up correctly. There's still a very small amount of airflow that squeezes past a closed IAC valve; it's that venturi like sound you're hearing. Any ideas here? So, this is what it takes to put a Sniper on a small-block Ford. If you remove the air cleaner entirely and the whistle continues then you can rule that out. Please advise. :-). It's hard to know what the previous owner did right versus wrong. In fact, it is those users who seem to end up most impressed with the system. Now that you've installed at least four Snipers it is going to be imperative that you learn to create and read datalogs. Between the kick down and the return springs on the throttle body the pedal is so hard to push it's pretty much a jack rabbit start every time from stop, it's almost undrivable, any suggestions on what I could do?thanks for help, I've tried both Holley's tech lines for close to 2 hours with no answer! lower until I turn down the set screw. Chris thank you for the info. You will need to change the -40 degree idle speed setting again but I recommend not touching anything else. Even at 0% it's sucking a bunch of air through the IAC port. I'm so glad you found this helpful--that makes my day!Don't get too concerned about the specific learn percentage. Then your low idle problem will go away. Was perfect idle iac reading 3. Start engine let it warm up to 160, learn mode is learning. Sometimes it sounds like it wants to crank at the start but runs out of gas. Since the shield was put on, not a single problem, not one. :-). First, check to make sure that the IAC is properly mounted and connected. have the system learn the higher speeds? When this occurs, I sometimes can shut it down and it will return to the correct settiings. However, I have what I will call a whistle at a throttle position on 35 - 50. If there is an issue with using the Sniper EFI TPS signal, is there a remote TPS or an adaptor for the Sniper EFI that allows the TPS signal to be accessed for the transmission. At 0% it shouldn't be sucking any air through that port, correct? On startup- cold or hot, I get a 2 second high idle of about 1500 RPM before normal set idle of 750 RPM happens. It is probably that your RPM above the maximum point at which ramp-down can occur. The 10 step set up on your page set my idle perfect and iac perfect a very consitant 700. Throttle Tip-In puts you in a part of the fuel map where you stay for only milliseconds at a time. If I go any more it will ping. Possibly cap, rotor, coil? We've already tried adjusting the Acceleration Enrichment chart in all ways, going up and down, RoC Blanking, everything, it has no effect. I called support line he said he would have to look into it and call back. If you do find you have RFI issues then I've written an . We can not hit it at all, we hit the pedal abruptly, the engine gives a lot of excess fuel, the AFR gets super poor at first, the car stops, then the AFR gets super rich and the car runs until it cleans up. At that point, with 90 PSI of fuel, the ECU can't turn the duty cycle down low enough to idle properly. The Street/Strip and race cam setups tend to be too rich initially. However, I can't think of a single one that was because of low vacuum. I believe because the TPS is not registering. IAC percentage is 5 to 10% when idling with fans on, What you're experiencing is the delay time between the ECU sensing the additional load and the IAC actually increasing the RPM. However, whenever you start changing things, you can get into a chain reaction. Turn the idle speed screw on the primaries in about 2-3 turns after it makes contact with the linkage and starts opening the primary throttle blades. One of the signs of a vehicle with a rough idle is a faulty Idle Air Control (IAC) Motor. Otherwise, if removing the air cleaner eliminates the whistle then try to use a thicker gasket or try lightly greasing the gasket. Ilike a few othersam having idle issues. I, too, wish you'd bought your Sniper from us! I'm happy to walk you through what is required. you have it set. It's not necessary to drive it that way. With the vehicle in neutral, adjust the idle screw until the IAC Position reads between 2 and 10%. If I adjust idle screw out to get the tps to zero or even 1% the engine will not idle. I had that problem, right out of the box it would not power up, sent it back in, had defective hand held. For someone in your position, it will become an indispensable tool in your tool box. Im thinking a faulty TPS. You've got it running and warmed up but now you need to set. I'm running a 408 sbc. You will have to do this until the TPS stays at 0% when the throttle is closed. After this whole process, the car normally rotates without a very abrupt pedal. I have a feeling it's something simple but I thought I'd ask you first before I inadvertently change something that affects other areas. You can re-enable this after you have completed this idle speed adjustment process. When I put it in gear, it drops so low that it will stall if I don't add throttle. Seems to behave more better now. :-)Yes, learn impacts idle too, and remember the even when the basic learning is done there will continue to be some learning for changes in weather, altitude, etc.Go ahead and try a few idle settings and see how they impact the idle-speed searching. If you set the RPM above idle to start ramp too high, then it may not ever get down to the RPM above idle to re-enable. The fuel pump is mounted under rocker panel as low as possible and far away from any heat. Note that sometimes you can get into a back-and-forth situation. Hey Tommy, we've got at least one thing in common. Took it for a lap around the block and came back. Due to when the pump i'm using now makes a loud howling noise when it gets ran for awhile and it gets at a 1/4 tank of fuel or less. Fuel Flow lb / h = 12.1 and when I close the IAC's hole with his finger, the engine is normal.The data on the touch screen I see are:AFR, A / F = 35.6 Though they both are indications of the amount of opening through the throttle body, the TPS is the throttle opening percentage and the IAC number tells us how far the IAC stepper motor is opening the bypass air circuit.If I understand you correctly you are saying that the TPS reads somewhat normally (traveling from 9% to 100% or so) but that when you cycle the key it once again starts at 9%. It is temperature dependent but 30 is commonly where you find it. Good afternoon Chris, thanks for taking the time to help all of these folks that didn't purchase from you- myself included!The issue I seem to be having is at idle in both park/neutral and drive. However based on your reply I connected the Fuel Pressure gauge and )So before I hook up another gauge to see if the Auto Meter is bad (assuming I can find a 0-100 test gauge in my shop). Great work, expert! Simply use your handheld controller and go to the Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Idle > Idle Speed screen and click on the Idle Speed Curve function. Cycle the ignition as instructed by the handheld and then navigate to the distributor setup screen. By going into the IAC settings and turning off the Idle Spark control and setting Target Idle to 750 RPM my idle issues are gone, and it now returns to desired idle after cruise. It has gotten a little better after I drove it for three hours today.I want to save the Kik because if I get this working good then I would like to add A C and use the kick for it.Motor is Mopar 360 with mild cam and automatic. On a cold start it will idle at 750 everytime, But if its hot start it will jump upto 1600rpm for 2 seconds then come back to 750. Make sure that your blanking level is _below_ that (being careful not to find yourself in the situation I describe above.) If i adjust the throttle plate screw in to bring IAC in to proper range say around 7 the engine is running around 2000 rpm. It sounds to me like it is way retarded.In the event that the timing is right then take a look at your AFR--the actual AFR, not the target. But there are several degrees of play there in which it should still work fine. Then it started behaving oddly. I think I figured some of my problems outI'll try to explain. Thanks for the info Chris. We're having trouble with a Ford Maverick 302 V8, using ethanol. It only comes back to normal if I turn the engine off and on again. The Tech Tips and discussions are also great! If it is already adding fuel, it may be worth expanding this into the area where the tip-in is occuring (and where there is no learning occuring. Thanks in advance for any advice. You can manually set it 57 after you run the Wizard if required. It could be a problem with the power/ground for the Sniper but much more commonly this is a result of too much RFI. It is easily solved by installing a four-hole gasket or four-hole spacer (depending on your hood clearance issues.) It is a common one. Fought a high idle issue until I changed your idle speed curve fix along with dropping the IAC hold to 10%. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. I'm wonder if the iac can cause this. :-). i'm having is I can't seem to get the truck to run faster than 45 mph at speeds But I wanted to go ahead and answer this so that it would make sense to someone who might not go that route.I think the first thing I'd do is try another pressure gauge. My IAC and TPS show zero when it does this. The motor has 376hp at flywheel and the car is a stick shift. After manually making the sensor go through the full range a few times, I reinstalled it and now my TP will read anywhere from 0% to 4% when I key on. Turning it off and back on would reset it, and then it would work as advertised for a while. issue. Be aware that there is a spring behind there and a diaphragm that you don't want to tear. Since the load is more of a wave that increases the most initially and then decreases again, the ECU is doing really well to get the idle under control in only two or three over/under shots as you describe.You don't mention if you have your Sniper ECU controlling timing. If you haven't confirmed that they it is worth checking. When the secondary throttle blades are centered in their bores and pivot freely, an additional return spring is not necessary. That's what you're seeing. I would suggest you take a look at that if you haven't already. is the fuel pressure. Now, 1% on the TPS isn't a problem, but when it goes to 2% (which is inevitable if you have RFI moving it to 1%) then the IAC is going to go to it's hold position (30% by default) and the engine is going to rev up. The resulting resistance can burn up fuel pumps, wiring and relays. Have you confirmed your fuel pressure at idle is 60 PSI? Inj. My IAC was constantly at 100% at idle. TP range is normal goes up to about 90% with throttle pedal to the floor. Simply go to those cells, tweak them up or down as required, and the ECU should now be able to learn its way around the bog. How can I adjust the startup speed down to about 1400 RPM? would correct it (as it has for a multitude of other drive-ability issues) but this one little glitch seems out of it's range. I have seen a couple of videos on you tube of the same issue but they don't seem to have found the cure.I hope it is not a computer problem as I have already replaced the entire system because of another problem. If you see that the ECU is commanding the IAC to 0 but there is air entering the IAC port then it's time to refer to my article on IAC Testing Procedures, Hello,I installed my sniper system on a 65 mustang, with a 302.